Photographing Fireworks

For the last 25 years I have been around fireworks and fireworks shows. Both the nuts and bolts setup of shows and the behind-the-scenes techniques that make the difference between a hohum show and a spectacular artistic exhibition in the sky. I am privvy to this very private world because my family, more specifically my brother, owns a fireworks company that displays about 100 shows a year. I also shoot several shows a year. This, added to my background of photography, has given me some very special training at capturing these most elusive of images.
Fireworks can be a very difficult subject to photograph, the main problem being exposure, but with a little knowledge, care and planning, and the expectation of an above average failure rate some very satisfying results can be achieved. In fact it is the very nature of the element of chance which makes the good shots so pleasing to the photographer.
Choice of Camera. The first consideration is the choice of camera, the most important consideration being that manual control is essential. The constantly changing exposure time, colour balance and light intensity through the frame simply fools an automatic camera.A Simple Rule: I learned a very simple rule of thumb which has served me well: choose an aperture which is nearest to the square root of the speed of the film you are using. This is not as complex as it first sounds. Put simply, if your film speed is ISO 100, the square root is 10 and therefore the nearest aperture is f11. This an excellent starting point because a slow, ISO 100 is a good choice, or as an alternative use ISO 64 at f8. This brings us onto the exposure. The minimum focal length I use on my Canons is 28mm (35mm format equivalent). When photographing large shows from near NFPA minimum distances, I found that most of my shots were taken at or near 28mm focal length. If you don't know what the NFPA minimum distances are, don't worry about it. If you're on the "front row" at a large display (in the US or Canada), you'll probably be at or near NFPA minimum distance.
Since I use Canon pro camera bodies (high megapixels) and shoot in RAW format, I use a wide lens. This lets me get the whole scene in the frame and crop later at the computer for composition. If you don't have a lens as wide as 28mm, I would suggest setting up at a proportionately longer distance from the fireworks to take in the larger effects. If at all possible, set up in an location which is upwind of the fireworks. If the wind is blowing side to side, move to the upwind side of the field. I would not recommend setting up in a grandstand unless those stands are remarkably solid. You should place your tripod on solid ground to take long exposures.
Exposure A good firework photograph inevitably takes a number of seconds to expose otherwise it would have very little content. A camera with automatic exposure up to 30 seconds can give good results but sometimes you will hear the shutter click shut just as a seriously exciting shell explodes in the sky. The best bet in the long run is to use the B setting on the shutter speed, which keeps the shutter open under your control, and a locking cable release is very useful. The judgment you have to develop is to imagine the light from the fireworks painting itself onto the film surface. When you have built up enough of an image close the shutter and wind on for the next frame. A bright sequence or a sky full of fireworks may only take a few seconds while on the other hand you might keep open the shutter for many seconds when little is happening and build up the photograph over several salvos. Some photographers have even used the lens cap while the shutter is open, waiting for the next 'good bit'. Don't worry about reciprocity failure. It goes without saying here that a tripod is essential.
Focussing. Normally a critical aspect of photography, focusing takes a back seat with fireworks. Just set the focus ring on infinity and forget about it! Plan Ahead. Much of the success of fireworks photography is in anticipation and forward knowledge and planning. Knowledge of displays will help you to choose the right vantage point to get ground, mid-sky and aerial bursts all in the frame without too much, if any repositioning of the tripod. If you have planned displays you will also know of the importance of wind speed and direction when it comes to smoke. Composition. Remember the basic rules of composition and try to have something in the foreground and background to give perspective and context. If there is water around, the right angle to pick up reflections is also useful. Most of this is of course planned in broad daylight and without the pressure and problems of crowds. Relatively dim fireworks did not photograph well using the methods I've described here. I got some good shots of charcoal crossetts. These crossetts were relatively dense. Bushy charcoal comets turned out fine. Fill-the-sky kamuros did not photograph well. They are too dim for this exposure method and I suspect there's too much tiny detail to capture well on film. Although you will be concentrating on the fireworks, look around for other subjects. If have a second camera use it hand held for candid and quick opportunities. A child's face, for instance, thrilled by the action and illuminated by a spectacular shellburst can make a wonderful photograph.
Hope some of this "clicked" and is helpful. My last pearl of wisdom is experiment, experiment, experiment. As with any endevor, knowledge and practice = success.
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